SJDS to scooter or not?

How to Explore the Bays Around San Juan del Sur

The Key to Freedom in San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur (SJDS) is the ultimate base for beach lovers. However, there's a crucial detail many travelers overlook: the best beaches—Maderas, Remanso, and Yankee—are not in the town itself. They are a bumpy, 20 to 40-minute ride away over unpaved, dusty, or muddy roads. Mastering your transportation is, therefore, the key to unlocking the true freedom of this region.

Here is an objective comparison of the most common ways to explore the bays around SJDS.

1. The Tourist Shuttle: Comfortable and Reliable

The shuttle is the most popular and safest way to travel to the surf beaches. They are specifically set up to cater to tourists and surfers.

Pros

Reliable: The timetable is fixed. Shuttles run multiple times a day (often hourly) to the most popular beaches, particularly Playa Maderas.

Direct Service: They usually depart from central points, such as the popular Casa Oro Hostel, and drop you off directly at the beachfront restaurants or surf schools.

Safety: You travel with other tourists on established routes. This is the safest option, especially when traveling after dark.

Cons

Pricier: While not expensive by Western standards (expect to pay $2 to $5 per one-way trip), this is the most expensive shared option.

Less Flexible: You are tied to the departure times. If you want to catch the sunset at Maderas, you must make sure you don't miss the last shuttle back.

Need to Know: 

Many surf schools and hostels, like Casa Oro, run their own unofficial shuttle network. You usually just book your seat at the front desk.

2. The Local Colectivo (Shared Ride): The Budget Hack

While full-sized Chicken Buses (old American school buses) are less common in SJDS than in the rest of Nicaragua, there are definitely local colectivos. These are often small pickup trucks or old vans that run fixed routes for the local people who live and work at the outlying beaches.

Pros

Extremely Cheap: This is by far the most budget-friendly option (less than $1 per ride).

Cultural Experience: You travel with the local population. It’s an authentic experience.

Cons

Irregular: The timetable is unpredictable and depends on passenger load. Expect long waiting times.

Comfort: You'll often be packed in tight with many people, luggage, and perhaps even some groceries or surfboards.

Not Direct: They don't always stop precisely on the beach, but on the main road. You often have to walk the final stretch.

Travel Tip: 

The local market in the city of Rivas is the main hub for the real Chicken Buses that go to other cities (e.g., Granada, San Jorge). For the SJDS beaches, it’s a mini-collectivo experience.

3. Scooter/Moped Rental: The Freest, But Riskiest Option

Renting a small scooter or moped ($15–$25 per day) gives you the ultimate freedom to hop from bay to bay. This is the dream for the independent traveler.

Pros

Complete Freedom: You aren't bound by schedules. You can stop where you want and watch sunsets at your own pace.

Cost-Effective (for Couples): For two people, this is often cheaper than paying for multiple daily shuttles.

Cons

The Roads: This is the biggest risk factor. The roads to the beaches (especially Maderas and Yankee) are unpaved and riddled with deep potholes, loose gravel, and stones.
Rainy Season (May - Oct): The roads turn into mud slides.
Dry Season (Nov - Apr): They are extremely dusty and prone to patches of treacherous loose sand.

Safety: Accidents involving rented scooters are the most common tourist accidents. Local police patrol regularly and will often hold the foreigner accountable in the event of an accident.

Documents: Ensure you can show a valid motorcycle driver's license.

Crucial Advice: Only rent from reputable dealers, inspect the tires and brakes carefully, and always wear a helmet.

4. Taxi (Private or Shared): Quick and Convenient

The taxi is a good middle ground, especially for small groups or if you have luggage.

Private Taxi

You hire the taxi for the entire trip, which is ideal for late nights. Always agree on a fixed price before you get in.

Shared Taxi (Colectivo Taxi)

This is a local travel hack. Taxis wait at the bus terminal or on the main street until they have four passengers going roughly to the same destination (e.g., Maderas). The price is then split.

Pros

Speed: They drive the fastest and know the roads perfectly.

Shared (Colectivo): Offers a good balance between price and speed.

Cons

Negotiation: You need to be good at negotiating to avoid paying the 'gringo price.'

Late Night Surcharge: Rides after 8 PM are significantly more expensive.